Tuesday 9 June 2009

Do Not Read if You're Fond of Edinburgh



Glasgow's Miles Better Again declares Rupert Christiansen in the Telegraph.  It's 20 years since Glasgow became the first EU Capital of Culture (that long?) and a quarter of a century since the slogan "Glasgow's miles better" decorated the buses.

Although many expensive mistakes were made, Rupert believes it's impossible not to be impressed and even awed by the continuing vigour of the city's cultural life and there's no doubt that Glasgow's centre is an infinitely more interesting and exciting - and, yes, miles better - place than it was in the 80s.

From the make-over at Kelvingrove to the Tramway which houses the biggest exhibition space in Britain outside Tate Modern's Turbine Hall, Glasgow pleases him and he more than welcomes the £8m renovation of Charles Rennie Mackintosh's Glasgow School of Art.

Let's be fair though, Glasgow doesn't quite have everything.  It doesn't have a castle and it's not going to have one tram line, so really Edinburghers have nothing to be jealous about, have they?

53 comments:

Anonymous said...

Sobrosa..

If you took away the huge council estates that surround whats left of old Victorian and Georgine Glasgow then your in for a treat.

Glagows westend (Great western road)which even today is described as having fine victorian and Georgine terraces and a scale of epic proportions would rival anything in Paris or London.

The civic buildings in Glasgow are second to non, the shopping in Glasgow is amongst the best in Europe.

Glasgow has the finest art galleries and museums in the UK.

Glasgow is home to 2 of the biggest football clubs on earth.

I could sit here for a day and write about Glasgow. Edinburgh is a great city but also artificial in places.

The culture in Glasgow is real and Scottish and the patter is great.

Glasgows problems is that it had a cavalier approach to its old buildings and many of them are gone.

The city has been mismanaged for decades by Labour yet somehow the city still stands defiant.

I will always say this, they who control Glasgow control Scotland, for you can take Scotland out of Glasgow's economy but you cant take Glasgow out of Scotland's.

That old saying, the clyde made Glasgow and Glasgow made the clyde is so true but unfortunately both have fallen out with each other for now.

So what i am saying Subrosa, for all its troubles and politics, Glasgow is the best city in the world.

Big, hard, funny and Scottish..

McGonagall said...

Trams? Been there - done that.

http://tinyurl.com/lunceo

subrosa said...

Spook, that's the most eloquent writing I've ever read from you - a pure delight to read.

I know Edinburgh better than Glasgow, but Edinburgh disappoints me these days and I find I'm much more comfortable in Glasgow.

The architecture enthralls me and the people tickle me with their open and friendly attitudes.

I must visit more often - I've yet to see the new Kelvingrove and the Art College.

subrosa said...

Aye scunnert and I can remember being on Glasgow trams when I used to visit with my Dad as a wee lassie. Their demise occurred around the same time as the Dundee trams I think. Super video, I've bookmarked it.

Anonymous said...

Subrosa..

Thanks..

Im very passionate about Glasgow and although Edinburgh is a more attractive city, Glasgow still has that Raw appeal about it, in ways it reminds me of Leith, yes easily adaptable to change but also keep some of the old traditions.

I find Edinburgh very pompous at times and to much geared towards tourists. Both cites are great but Glasgow's smiles better..

Conan the Librarian™ said...

Glasgow smiles better, but remember, Edinburgh is slightly superior.

subrosa said...

Ahem Conan, you said it. How are you keeping btw?

Munguin said...

Glasgow is an ugly city with some beautiful buildings in it while Edinburgh is a beautiful city with some ugly building in it.
There are other cities in Scotland you know, I am quite fond of Dundee and Perth. Dundee does the best it can with what it’s got. Remember it was the home of Town Planning and was and is the first city in the world to have a ring road and was first to have that great icon of modern motoring the traffic roundabout as we call it in Dundee a circle. Dundee’s city fathers were quick to embrace new ideas long before any others and that is why we sadly lost a lot of our finest historic building. Dundee west station for example was reputed to rival St Pancras. While the old Overgate would now be one of the finest examples of vernacular architecture if it had survived. We are putting that right now with the massive redevelopment of the river front and the removal of the leisure centre and the ghastly and much hated Tayside House.

brownlie said...

subrosa,

I always think the City Chambers in Glasgow is an extremely impressive building inside and out. I remember the Glasgow's miles better but not the trams.

However, the most impressive thing about Glasgow is the friendliness of strangers which is especially apparent if you've moved up from London.

Incidentally, Spook's final sentence in his first posting would appear to be a good description of Niko.

subrosa said...

Ah Munguin, city of my birth Dundee. Maule, over centuries, to pieces by ignorant city fathers and continually being rebuilt in a haphazard fashion. Lost communities such as the Overgate, Hilltown, Hawkhill, some buildings still there but the core elements long gone.

The Kingsway is another matter altogether. When my Dad got his first car around 1953, the first trip was along the Kingsway to the Scott Fyfe roundabout and back. Thrilled to bits to be cracking along at possibly around 25mph, I thought I was the luckiest lassie in the world.

Upon my return to Scotland and work, the Kingsway was still a blessing and enabled quick access to the city from points west, north and east. It took Edinburgh another 40 years to realise they could do with one - slow these Edinburgers aren't they.

subrosa said...

You know Brownlie, that's one building I've yet to see inside. Each time I'm in Glasgow it's either closed to the public or it's a weekend and of course closed, because the council never works weekends.

Vronsky said...

Favourite Glasgow: the Hunterian Museum and Hunterian Gallery. And don't count your tram lines before they're laid - there are already trams running in Coatbridge, which I'll claim is Glasgow-ish.

CrazyDaisy said...

SR,

I'm always more comfortable in Glesga but my English wife is more comfortable in Edinburgh, that comment in itself speaks volumes about both cities.

I am Aberdonian and love all Scotland, having travelled the world nowhere can beat our country.

So why do we let someone else rule our land? - Cap in hand?!!

Crazy D

Administrator said...

As a Glaswegian in exile. I agree with much of what has been said above. However, as I visit Edinburgh more regularly now, I'm beginning to shift my westaeScoatlan perspective onto the joys of Embra.

I spent 18 months living in Paris as a young un, to this day I still don't know all of Paris, the same can be said of Edinburgh. Despite being knee deep in tourists, I enjoy the walk along the royal mile and experiencing a more or less extant road that has physically changed very little over the last 200 odd years.

Edinburgh For Arts...

Great Big Billygoat Gruff said...

From Today's Herlad by Robin Dinwoodie.

Opposition to independence for Scotland has fallen to below 40% for the first time, according to a poll by TNS-BMRB, formerly System Three.

While there still remains greater opposition to, than support for, independence, the proportion of those set against Scotland going alone has fallen steadily over the last two years. At the start of the series of snapshots in August 2007, opposition to independence stood at 50%, support for independence was 35%, with only 15% undecided.

Now after seven such polls by TNS-BMRB, opposition to independence has declined by 11 points, those undecided have risen by 10 points, while core support for separation appears largely unchanged at 35%-40%.

Can anyone explain this to me please.

subrosa said...

Vronsky, I'm going to visit Coatbridge and have bookmarked the page. Thanks so much. I'd just love a wee ride on one of the old trams.

Vronsky said...

GBBGG

I'm not sure what you need explained, but just to dot the is and cross the ts, it means that a referendum on independence is now mathematically winnable, where previously it was not. I stress that word 'mathematically' - the actual outcome of a vote depends on many things, not just the underlying support for an idea. What the new numbers tell us is that probably not enough people oppose independence to prevent it, if those in favour (or undecided) vote for it.

There was always support for independence in excess of support for the SNP - with the collapse of Labour, these two might be beginning to converge.

subrosa said...

Billy if you'd like to do a guest post about that, I'll gladly put it up.

subrosa said...

CD, I can understand your wife. Glaswegians don't understand the meaning of the word 'reserved' and they can seem a bit 'in your face' to a non-Scot. I love their openness.

Whereas Edinburgers are reserved which makes them appear to be slightly superior with their more anglified ways. After all, Edinburgh was known as the London of the North for many years.

Key bored warrior. said...

Rosie, Glasgow has a castle, ever heard of Castlemilk, you can still see the foundations.

We also have Crookston: Crookston Castle

Crookston Castle is located in the Pollok district of Glasgow, some 5 miles (8 km) south of the city centre and overlooking the Levern Water, just before its confluence with the White Cart Water. The castle was originally a rectangular structure, later strengthened by the addition of towers at each corner, although only one tower at the northeast corner survives at its former height. The entrance was adjacent and defended by a portcullis and two doors.

The castle was most likely built in the late 14th C. and was long the property of the Stuarts of Darnley, including Henry Stuart (1545-67), who was second husband to Mary, Queen of Scots. The castle had been besieged by King James IV in 1489 and significantly damaged. The ruin passed through various hands, including the Dukes of Montrose, who sold it to the Maxwells of Pollok in 1757. This family partially restored the castle to commemorate the visit of Queen Victoria to Glasgow in 1847.


The poets Robert Burns (1759-96), William Motherwell (1797 - 1835) and Robert Tannahill (1774 - 1810) have all mentioned the castle in their works, while Sir Walter Scott (1771 - 1832) suggested Mary, Queen of Scots, watched the Battle of Langside (1568) from its towers, although the topography makes this impossible.

Now then..... we also have a Subway which works, called The Clockwork orange, much better than a tram.

We also have a great famous river running through the middle of Glasgow, complete with floating jobbies and little rafts of pink Delsey, I know because I worked on it for 5 years.

We also have a great big motorway slicing through it and the only right hand lane exit from a motorway in Britain.

Naw the man is right, pure dead brilliant by the way, and that from a Highlander.

The only reason I visit Edinburgh is to visit relatives who do say, "you'll have had your tea."

Key bored warrior. said...

PS. We also put our castles to good use, Crookston is a loony bin :o)

Jim said...

Glasgow's got castles! Just not as ostentatious as the Capital's one.

We also have the utterly brilliant Burrel collection, located in Europe's best park which is sadly being threatened by an act of corporate vandalism, but not without a fight
Save Pollok Park

forfar-loon said...

Key bored warrior: The only reason I visit Edinburgh is to visit relatives who do say, "you'll have had your tea."

Perhaps Edinburgh people only ever say this to Glaswegians ;o)

RantinRab said...

I haven't been in Edinburgh since i was a wee boy, (30+ years ago). I'll need to pay a visit. I live only 25 minutes from Glasgow and can get right into the city centre without leaving the motorway (nearly). I love Glesga and it's hustle and bustle.

subrosa said...

Oh KBW, I knew I'd upset someone lol. Funnily enough offspring of mine told me this earlier this morning as he went to uni in Glasgow. So, I sit here corrected and apologise for my ignorance.

Auch I know about the subway KBW, I use sometimes myself. And yer wonderful blue river dividing the good from the bad. :)

Who could forget your exquisitely designed motorway with the right hand exit and which possibly causes more accidents than all Scottish motorways put together. Thankfully most drivers are ground to a near halt before they arrive at it, so the bashes and bumps are less serious than if done at regular speed.

Nothing wrong with loony bins KBW, they've been havens of peace for many I'm quite sure. Bit posh having one as a castle though. Must have been an Edinburger who made that particular decision.

subrosa said...

You know Jim, I've visited the Burrell around half a dozen times now and still haven't seen everything. Mind you, a couple of times it was packed with school children so my visit was short.

I thought the Pollock Park playground issue was done and dusted. Good to hear you're all keeping up the fight. It's vandalism indeed and a shameful disregard for the trustees.

subrosa said...

Ha ha Forfar-loon. Naw, they say it to Dundonians too, believe me. :)

subrosa said...

Rab, no matter how hard I try, I just can't see you as a resident of Edinburgh. :)

CrazyDaisy said...

SR,

Aye I suppose you may be correct as she's dead posh an a'm just a fishin loon, she also pointed out the meaning of your first title - Subrosa! Her being a Spanish teacher in aw!

Ahem madame!

Crazy D

subrosa said...

There ye go then CD but she's got good taste I'm sure. :) Subrosa is a term I first came across in military circles. Don't know if it's used much today though.

Anonymous said...

I don't know either city too well, but I like them both a lot.

Glasgow is awesome; the people are magic and that accent is the nicest and warmest in the country.

Edinburgh is our own capital. (I never think of London as the capital of my country, althoughI love it almost as much as I love Paris). Edinburgh has recently taken on the air of a real capital city, like Paris or Rome, you know, where things really happen. Wxciting and vibrant, well, at least to a lad from Dundee.

I'd love to live there.

subrosa said...

Tris, last time I was in Edinburgh just a few months ago, it struck me as a faded relic which was being torn apart.

The atmosphere had been replaced by a tenseness but of course the roadworks didn't help one bit. They certainly won't attract returning visitors.

I lived there for a while back in the early 70s when it still buzzed, but a 70s buzz. It seemed most dwellers avoided the city during the summer months due to the influx of tourists.

If I had to chose between them Glasgow would win for me.

Great Big Billygoat Gruff said...

Sub

I do not have access to the raw data and it is not commented upon in the Herald artcile, which is very short.

I read it that the %support for independence is rock solid but those agin have dropped below 50% although the deserters have gone into the "don't know! or "not yet sure" caterories.

I also read it as a slow and steady advance on the indepence road.

The question is whether the floaters can be brought into the independence or more devolution camps and how the SNP should react to this.

Anything else would be even more conjecture without seeing the questions and the breakdown od age and gender.

Jim Baxter said...

Edinburgh depresses me like no other place I ever visit. Possibly it's because I went to school there. Maybe I just don't like change. I know every area of the city - from Drylaw to Craigmillar, from Colinton to Craigentinny, having worked as a delivery bod there for some years some years ago - you can't lose me in Edinburgh and lots of people have tried, usually in states of some desperation. To me it's sterile. Every part of it. Azoic. A fossil.

Glasgow has soul. You can't lose me here either (lots of... etc., see above). I have a black hack badge (expired). Oh, I just took it out for bit of fun. So I know everywhere here too. also I was born here. I don't know why that should matter but it does, to me.

Subrosa, I'd be happy to be your guide anytime. Glasgow's A Dive!. I mean, Glasgow's Alive!

Vronsky said...

Every time someone moves from Glasgow to Edinburgh the average IQ of both cities increases.

Think about it.

Conan the Librarian™ said...

Thirty-five posts on Weegie-land versus Edinburgh, a nerve has been hit subrosa!
I love my hame toon.
Except for the tourists.
And the Festival.
And the tourists at the Festival.
And the trams.
Oh God the trams.
Soon(about five years)I will hate tourists on the trams going to the Festival...
http://mypseudepigrapha.blogspot.com/2009/05/words-typed-in-george-st.html

Conan the Librarian™ said...

Sorry, you enquired after my health.
No further forward I'm afraid subrosa.
But at least I'm not trying to commute;¬)

subrosa said...

Yoohoo Conan. As long as yer no' going backwards that's whit matters. As for commuting it's a mug's game, don't you think?

subrosa said...

Ooops forgot to say Conan, I am surprised too at the comments, but don't you think everyone has behaved impeccably? None of the 'my place is better than yours' at all.

I'm a bit like Jim, Edinburgh doesn't do much for me these days but Glasgow still does. Now, no comments about it being a city for the ageing please :)

Jim what a kind invitation - I may well take you up on it. I've never had a guided tour of Glasgow.

subrosa said...

I've finally got it Vronsky!

subrosa said...

Billy I read a post this morning which could answer part of your question. Will have a think to see if I remember who wrote it.

Jim Baxter said...

Subrosa,

High time you did then. I have a black belt in Glasgow bars (you need one) but am familiar (i.e. I know where they are) with more genteel, cultured establishments too. You'll recognise me from my photograph here. If you don't mind pretending that I am your bewildered uncle on day-release from Carstairs then we shouldn't attract any unwanted attention.

subrosa said...

What is it about me and men who look like bewildered uncles? There's definitely something Jim. My brother, on many occasions, has been identified as exactly that. Then again, I suppose he does look permanently flabbergasted.

wisnaeme said...

Aye,Embra 's okay for a jaunt to now and then. I've got relations there so I'm obliged to visit the place. Don't mention the trams to my sister though,she's right scunnered with them, what with the noise of jack hammers, the holes in the ground and the disruption.
She lives awfy close to the top of Leith Walk.By the way.

I prefer Glasga and Weegie folk myself. But then, I spent a fair bit of time there in my youth. My first serious winch and exploration was conducted behind the Bannana plant in the Botanical garden greenhouse. Grand nights out in the Highlander's Institute and trips to see the films in the back row.Paint your wagon, Oliver and The Graduate. My, The Graduate,tame as it was, generated some excitement in the back row,ah'm telling ye.

...and rushing to get the last 'clockwork Orange special'
from Kelvinside to Bucanan St to catch the SMT bus hame.

Aye, I remember the trams.
Airdrie folk of the getting on variety sill call the junction of Clark St and Stirling Road "The Terminus". Mither and me used to catch the tram there for the trip doon to Coatdyke to see Auntie and Uncle (the pawnbrokers). A well trod path, then. I can tell ye.

I only wore my my new pair of nice shiny black leather shoes and first suit wae the short trousers twice. Once for the fitting and then for the ocassion of my first holy communion aged five.

...and then they were for the hurl on the tram doon tae Auntie and Uncle.

...and me greetin all the way doon and back till mither bought me a cone frae the Capocci man's cafe at the corner of the terminus.

Ah've a mind to pay a visit to Coatbridge for the trams. Used to dog school about that area when ah stayed wae granny. Where the heritage park now is was one of my haunts in the late fifties. The excitement I had one day when a driver of a wee shunter of a steam engine gave me a hurl on the footplate is still remembered. A wee go at the whistle and turning the regulator wheel as if ah wis driving the bluidy thing was an excitement. That and my share of the bacon, eggs and square sausage, (fried on the shovel) well fired rolls and a billy can full of hot, strong, sweet tea before seeing me safely home to my granny.

Christ, my mouth's slavering.

Richt ah'm aff tae the fridge, for the makings. An for a couple of spoonfuls of nestle condensed milk in ma Camp coffee. lol.

.

subrosa said...

Wonderful Tom, just wonderful. I'm slavering now thinking about Camp coffee with condensed milk. Might just have to go to Perth to find some tomorrow or I'll never switch it off in my brain.

I've often wondered why no other coffee maker has added chicory to their coffee.

Right, time to plan a visit to Coatbridge once I get time off, round about October.

Great Big Billygoat Gruff said...

Nestlé do a chicory dried coffee here, Mrs Faux Cul bought a packet on Sunday.

Cannae remeber what it is called though.

subrosa said...

Auch Billy it won't be sold here I don't suppose. British palates are too overcome by McDonald's coffee these days. :(

Great Big Billygoat Gruff said...

Sub

I have sent you some info on Chicory coffee

subrosa said...

Many thanks Billy, I do appreciate your trouble. Most kind of you.

-- said...

Lived in Edinburgh for four years while I was studying. Absolutely gorgeous place - the locals didn't hate Londoners nearly as much as I'd been warned to expect...

(Went to Glasgow once for a concert. Was not impressed...)

wisnaeme said...

Weel, it's nae McDonald's coffee that I can have for free every working day of the week, but it's similar.Ah'm an electrical engineer who services and maintains those Barista and Capuccino machines amongst other things. Ye kin have too much of a good thing, let me tell you.

My regards to Perth, Subrosa.

A place I know quite well and pairts round about, Comrie and Crieff fer twa.

My, there's the films in ma heid agin. Ah bet yon wee picture hoose in Creiff will be awa by noo.

Last time ah was in it, was in the late sixties. Great film and class film stars, "Guess who's coming to dinner."


Oh, with regard to my last post.

http://tinyurl.com/m3rp2j

Cute, ain't ah.

.

subrosa said...

Martin us Scots are generally tolerate folks :)

Auch a few hours in Glasgow isn't enough Martin, you need a few weeks to begin to understand the people because it's the people who make a community.

subrosa said...

Auch aye Tom, yer were a bonnie wee laddie. Whit happened?

Same as whit's happened tae us aw', wear and tear but as long as it's guid wear and tear then it's ok with me.

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